Thursday, March 10, 2011

Castle Rock, Boulder Canyon

gill crack: 
use tiny face holds!
green alien (reach super high off ground)
red camalot
red c3 (upper piton pod)
grey camalot
yellow camalot
long sling
ANCHOR

(new edit)
red c3 probably wouldn't hold a fall
.4 below pods instead, then .5 above

athlete's feet:
pitch 1:
left foot on little black invisible nub, right foot up incredibly high on sharp crystal
palm down on mini crimp
pitch 2:
.4 in back of crack (ledge fall potential, scary)
maybe #4 instead so you can blindly place?
pitch 3:
in layback:
yellow camalot
blue camalot
pitch 4&5 straight forward.

country club crack:
make impossible slab move, get left foot up!
rack:
green-red aliens
1 .4
1 .5
2 .75
2 #1
2 #2
1 #3 (optional?)