Tuesday, June 21, 2011


BD Camalot: 2x #.4-3, 1x #4, 2x #5
*2x #5 makes OW off peanut safe and easy
Metolius Offset Master Cam: Two sets 00/0-3/4
*essential for doing the route clean
*Only used 00/0 offset once
*0/1 is the MONEY cam
Alien: black-green
BD C3: 00-1
1 set BD stoppers
*Placed only 1 stopper
1 set HB offset brassies (5 total)
BD sawed off angle pitons #3-4 (hand placed)
BD beak one medium one large (hand placed)

15 OZ quickdraws (10 normal, 5 alpine)
*too many, maybe bring 10 or 12
1 yates screamer
8 BD Nitron screwgates
*too many, maybe bring 5 or 6
5 wire rivet hangars
*the minimum you would want to bring
OZ carabiners on entire rack
6 free OZ carabiners
*not needed 
Metolius Easy Daisy Chains
*mine were fuzzy as hell, replace them!
Yates 6 step ladders
Gri-gri 2 (unmodified)
Petzl ascension ascenders
Metolius Monster 9.8
Metolius big wall stuff sack for rope bag

2 medium & 1 wide cam hook
*wide hook is MONEY! 
sky hook
talon hook
*only used once, top stepped and reached past all the chicken batt holes
grappling hook

5.10 Guide Tennies 
BD Xenos harness
*good, but left me with bruises. I don't like climbing fast with a wall harness. 
Petzl Meteor 3+ helmet (with lightning bolt modification)
Prana cotton pants
Synthetic t-shirt from discount clothing store
Arc'teryx Alpha LT shell

16L BD Shot pack 
Ray-Ban Wayfarer glasses (first time climbing with my glasses)

The fuel: 
4 liters water 
2 gu packets 
3 packs shot blocks 
1 candy bar 
*Good amount of food, 4 liters is the minimum amount of water you would want to bring. Unless you think you can solo it in 12 hours, with no chance of an epic. 
->drank 1/2 gallon of gatorade on peanut ledge. Neil left it on his Shortest Straw solo. 
->had 2 clif bars, 2 gu packets, and 1/2 gallon of water stashed on summit  

Climbed in a t-shirt on ENTIRE route, pretty awesome.
Climbed route the day after bringing Mark Hudon's 60lb haul bag off summit
Start: 4:09 am
End: 11:16 pm
Jaw muscles sore from clenching teeth when scared
Entire body destroyed!
Rocked The Zodiac playlist on iPod entire time

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